Caravaggio and his followers (appeared in NUVO Magazine)

For art lovers, Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio (1571-1610), is the hottest baroque painter who ever held a brush. He was also one of the founding fathers of the baroque style. In the first Canadian exhibit of this very contemporary Old Master, the National Gallery presented Caravaggio and His Followers in Rome, which closed September 11.

Caravaggio’s genius is eerily contemporary. “Four-hundred years later, he seems to touch our sensibilities more than any of the Old Masters,” remarks Sebastian Schutze, co-curator of the exhibit and Chair of the Department of Art History at the University of Vienna.

The chiaroscuro element - the dark background and the light-infused figures in the foreground inspired film noir, notes National Gallery Director, Marc Mayer. And Caravaggio’s emoting figures, so full of subtle glances and dark passion, draw us into the story of each painting. “A real live Caravaggio - the actual object, not a photo or something you see on the internet - is a very powerful experience,” Mayer says. “His high drama, his realism - you almost forget you’re looking at a painting”.

Caravaggio used his low-life posse - pimps, prostitutes, musicians – as models, sometimes as biblical figures. The Roman prostitute, Fillide Melandroni, posed as Mary Magdalene in The Conversion of the Magdalene, one of the ten Caravaggios in the exhibit. Although such models were considered scandalous, wealthy collectors sought his paintings, full of sex and violence, saints and sinners.

Dozens of European painters were drawn to Rome to check out this virtuoso wild man. The exhibit intends to show how Caravaggio influenced his Baroque contemporaries, called Caravaggisti The 50 paintings include works by Artemisia Gentileschi, Peter Paul Rubens and Simon Vouet; according to co-curator Schutz, “they offer challenging new perspectives on the art of Caravaggio”.

Caravaggio’s life was as violent as some of his masterpieces. He killed a pimp in a dual over a woman, then went on the lam, running from Rome to Naples to Venice, then to Malta, where he joined the Knights of Malta. Imprisoned for assaulting one of the senior knights, he escaped to Naples after a month, only to be slashed in the face by a knife-wielding attacker. He died less than a year later, in July 1610, in the Tuscan town of Porte Ecole.

The artist’s range is part of his continued appeal. He could accomplish eloquently spiritual paintings like Sacrifice of Isaac (in the show); he also painted musicians, fortune tellers and shady card players. Alongside his Card Sharp is a painting on the same subject, The Cheat With the Ace of Clubs, by French painter, Georges de la Tour.

Assembling the paintings for this show, the second largest display of the artist’s works in North America after the Metropolitan’s l985 exhibit, itself required masterful negotiating. Not a single Caravaggio painting exists in Canada, and most are in Europe’s great museums and churches, which are reluctant to lend them. In one instance, the National Gallery exchanged a Rembrandt to the Italian Museum, Pinacoteca Capitolini, which will keep the painting as hostage until it gets its Caravaggio back.
.
“I can’t imagine another Caravaggio exhibit in Canada”, sighs NAC director Mayer. “This will be an experience of a lifetime.”

In October, Caravaggio and his Followers in Rome will travel to the Kimball Art Museum in Fort Worth Texas, the exhibit’s only other stop.

www.gallery.ca/caravaggio

HAMBURG: Germany's Scandinavian City (appeared in Ensemble Vacations)

How many travelers would guess that Hamburg is the second largest city in Germany, and one of the most affluent, with the second largest port in Europe, after Rotterdam. Unlike glitzy Berlin, the colossus to the south, Hamburg’s image is far from high definition, at least to most North American visitors. Bordered by the by the North and the Baltic Seas, Hamburg is closer to Scandinavia than to Berlin (which is a comfortable 90 minute train ride away) Fish is on many a menu - and are open-faced sandwiches are popular. And two years ago, a high speed train began to bring in eager shoppers from Copenhagen.

Water seems to be Hamburg’s element, with rivers, canals, lakes and bridges everywhere. The name Venice of the North is deserved - the city has more bridges than the Italian icon. Now that Berlin is Germany’s capital, and there’s competition, Hamburg is drawing on its long history of shipping and trade, and its international outlook to find a new energy.

Some of the country’s largest media headquarters are located here - AOL Germany and the magazine, Der Spiegel, for example. And Hamburgers (that’s what they are called!) like to talk about ad agencies moving to Berlin, then coming back. These trendy companies are right in synch with the city’s new vanguard development, the Hafen City, the transformation of a former industrial area, and now the largest construction site in the European Union. A place to work, live and play, the project has engaged starchitects including Rem Koolhaas and Renzo Piano.

Red Light District
If Hamburg is known for anything, it’s the Reeperbahn the red light district which continues to offer everything erotic, from sex shops, to strip clubs. Hamburg’s brothels are located the Herberistrasse, where sex has been for sale since the l9th century. Prostitutes are still on display in windows, but are protected from prying eyes by a blocked-off section bounded by tall red doors; women are not encouraged to enter.

The Reeperbahn is only one a part of the district called St. Pauli’s, which is home to clubs, bars and restaurants. After dark, and late into the night, crowds, including families, stroll the area, the trendy coexisting with the sleazy. The theatres draw their own crowds - Hamburg ranks third in the number of international musicals, after New York and London. St. Pauli’s more wholesome delights are getting so popular that some locals fear that the neighbourhood will lose its edge.

The Beatlemania Museum, which opened in 2009, is a reminder of how that edge helped shape the fab four. For it was in Reeperbahn dives, from l960-62, where they honed their skills, often playing night after night, all night long. “I might have been born in Liverpool,” said John Lennon, “but I grew up in Hamburg”. The four floors of Beatlemania contain photos, a mockup of the Yellow Submarine, guitars and other memorabilia, bittersweet pleasure for fans.

Outside is Beatles-platz, a square with stainless steel cutouts of the group. Who can resist getting a corny photo taken of themselves with their head emerging through one of the cut outs of the lads.

This area is still grungy, but nearby, still in St. Pauli district, is the Bavaria Quarter, site of a former brewery, where some of the most chic nightspots are found. Hamburg scenesters drink and dine at Hotel East, a super trendy hotel converted from a foundry. The brick walls are intact, but Chicago architect, Jordan Mozer, has added surreal, Gaudi-like curved white sculpted walls and hanging lamps that look like giant teardrops.. The restaurant is known for its fine Asian-fusion food . www.east-hamburg.de

Maritime Legacy
Hamburg might be reinventing itself, but its maritime tradition continues to be imbedded in the soul of the city. Over l3,000 cruise and container ships dock here each year. A Russian billionaire’s yacht is currently being refurbished. And the tall, narrow, red brick warehouses that tower above the dreamy canals still house coffee, tea, spices and the largest concentration of Persian rugs in Europe.

In this area, known as the Speicherstadt, some of the warehouses have become museums. There’s a spice museum, where you can smell and touch a variety of spices. However, there is no English translation for the explanations.

The Model Train Museum (miniatur-wonderland.com), the largest model train exhibit in the world, is a huge (1100 sq. metres) multi-display fantasy world for all ages. At the push of a button, you can see any one of eight hundred trains ride through the snowy Alps, and endless other places. Also on view are scale models of the Champs Elysees, the Grand Canyon, Mt. Rushmore - and Hamburg itself. Miniature boats float on real water and there will soon be a miniature airport, with model planes taking off.

You can get to the train museum, the spice museum and several other sites via the Maritime Circle Line, which is a hop on and off boat service costing eight euros. Most people board the colourful red barges at the Landungsbruchen in St Pauli. . There is a running narration on the boats, but only in German.

One of the stops is another unexpected but must-see museum - BallinStadt, or “Port of Dreams”, named after shipping magnate, Albert Ballin. The thirteenth son of a Danish Jew who moved to Hamburg before Albert was born, Ballin helped make Hamburg Europe’s major port of embarkation during the waves of emigration between 1850 and l910. Ballin’s ships sent 5 million people to the New World from l901 until l918. He is also credited with inventing the overnight pleasure cruise.

BallinStadt displays the interiors of some of the ships, and tells the story of the lives of various classes of people when they arrived in the New World. There is also a genealogical computer centre on the main floor. Opened in 2007, the museum displays the sleeping and dining facilities Ballin built in l901 for the thousands of people who couldn’t afford to stay in hotels while waiting to depart.

The museum’s casual restaurant closes at 6, but it’s worth trying the Finkenwerder School, pan fried plaice. The apple strudel is also top notch.

Hamburg has a range of restaurants. Eleven boast Michelin stars, and there are many reasonably priced eateries serving a range of cuisines. For traditional German food – bratwurst, schnitzel – locals head for Freudenhaus Bar and Restaurant in the St. Pauli area. The restaurant’s name means brothel. But the food is wholesome and the portions are large. Chilli Club is a trendy Asian-fusion restaurant in the Hafen City area which attracts a smartly dressed crowd who spill out onto the deck overlooking the harbour. It’s known for its crispy duck, Asian Tho Pau Salad (lime, bamboo, bean sprouts, shiso cress) and its inventive cocktails.

Shopping
The town’s centre, near the grandiose Town Hall, an ornate Neo-Renaissance building, is flanked with cafes with a view of the bridge and the river. There are numerous covered shopping arcades and major shopping streets. Jungfernstieg is the place to go for luxury goods, but Monckebergstrasse and Spitalerstrasse are the magnet for mid-range shopping.

For stylish, moderately-priced German clothes (which fit those who are not model-skinny), head for Peek and Cloppenburg. Shoe lovers will find their paradise in Goertz, which has four floors of foot wear, and is the largest shoe store in Europe. My quest was for Think shoes, which are made in Austria and are comfortable yet fanciful.

Just up the pedestrian-only street, Spitalerstrasse, is the fish restaurant, Daniel Wischer, with its tempting outdoor french-fry bar. Indoors, the traditional wood-paneled restaurant sells all manner of fish.

Yet I must confess that my most memorable meal was.....a hamburger. Lusciously grilled, topped with cooked cabbage, slathered with local mustard, and accompanied with pan-fried potatoes. Deligious, even though it was not the authentic dish, which consists of sliced, not fried meat and does not include a bun.

I was dining outdoors at a dockside diner called Oberhafen Kantine, one of the oldest remaining in the city. The place is a local tradition - and now it’s an objet d’art. There’s a wooden copy of the brick building in Berlin, part of a traveling art exhibit. Berlin copying Hamburg? The competition continues.

Information
Air Transat flies direct to Hamburg from June to October, www.airtransat.ca
For more information on Hamburg, visit www.germany-tourism.de/hamburg

DREYFUS SPEAKS

(a version appeared in Maclean's Magazine)

Paris....

Charles Dreyfus at 83, carries his famous name with dignity and his tall frame with military bearing, as he continues to be involved with the preservation of his grandfather’s legacy. His grandfather was Alfred Dreyfus, the protagonist of the Dreyfus Affair, the greatest cause celebre in French history. The sham

eful saga, now over a century old, is well known: the French Captain, an Alsatian Jew, was framed, falsely accused of espionage and sent to the hell hole of Devil’s Island for five years. The case divided France and mobilized the likes of Emile Zola, whose article, J’Accuse, rocked France and eventually contributed to Dreyfus’ release in 1899. In l906, the Captain was granted a full exoneration and awarded the Legion of Honor..He fought in World War I and emerged a lieutenant-colonel.
Still, insists Charles as if it were today, “Grandfather was denied the seniority that would have allowed him to retire with the rank he deserved”. As the most active Dreyfus heir, Charles, gentlemanly and eloquent, continues to have a say in how his grandfather is remembered. He has delivered speeches at conferences and at the French Supreme Court. In 2006, he was asked to appear at a commemoration at the Ecole Militaire, presided over by then President Jacques Chirac. It was the very site where the “ceremony of degradation” was held in 1894.
“I was interviewed and became a celebrity for two days,” he recounts with a modest half- smile.
He dismisses the criticism of Alfred for being too reticent, too passive. “They had to find a justification for arresting him knowing he was innocent; so they say he may not have been guilty but he was so uninteresting.”
“Grandfather was a man of great culture”, he explains. In his journals, kept when he was incarcerated at Devil’s Island, he filled 30 notebooks. “He wrote about writers like Montaigne; he translated Shakespeare. He did math problems. That is what saved him, he was able to keep his mind active and not go mad”
Alfred Dreyfus died in 1935, when his grandson was eight years old. For decades after there was silence. ”People didn’t want to discuss it - it was not a glorious part of French history”. But in l994, a series of Dreyfus centennial commemorations began and lasted for over a decade. “From the time of grandfather’s arrest to the full clearing it took twelve years”.
Charles became more than a speaker. He had the last word on whether to move a statue of Dreyfus from its present location in a parkette on the Blvd. Raspail to the Ecole Militaire. (He said no, because it wouldn’t be visible to the public).A copy of the statue resides in the courtyard of the Jewish Museum of Art and History.
When, a few years ago, US Jewish groups called for a boycott of the Cannes Film Festival as a way of protesting French anti-semitism, and invoked the Dreyfus name, Charles Dreyfus sent them an email with his own protest. “In France today, you don’t see traditional anti-semitism - what you do see is an extension of the Arab-Israeli conflict. I certainly don’t feel threatened here.” Some of the most popular politicians in France are Jewish, he notes, citing Simone Weil and Jack Lang.
Charles is now preserving the memory of his grandfather through his role as Vice President of an association that is raising money for a museum in Medan, outside of Paris. It includes the home that belonged to Emil Zola, and is called Maison Zola-Musee Dreyfus. The hyphen is fitting, and so is the other VP: Martine le Blond-Zola, great grand-daughter of the writer.
“The families are still close”, Charles says of the Dreyfus and Zola descendants. He pulls out a box of old photos of the Zolas and of the Dreyfus family: Charles has three sisters and a 90 year-old cousin (three other cousins are deceased). “There are lots of grand-children and great-grand-children,” he grins proudly.
And now the Dreyfus Affair has surfaced in the Anglophone world with a series of books and lengthy articles.. It started with Louis Begley’s Why the Dreyfus Affair Matters..which that in a post 9/11 world, security is being allowed to compromise human rights and the rules of justice.
Charles Dreyfus find the book interesting, and sympathetic, “although a bit of a stretch” Still, he maintains, “the Dreyfus Affair is a symbol of miscarriage of justice, intolerance and prejudice. The head of the Supreme Court said it was “an error voluntarily committed”.

END

After Andy Warhol: Pop Life Exhibit at the National Gallery of Canada

(appeared in NUVO Magazine)
Long before the Material Girl, Andy Warhol was fabricating his own material world. Artist, publisher of Interview and seigneur of The Factory, where films made and “superstars” were born, Warhol broke the mold of the serious artist dedicated to a higher calling. Instead of sneering at the commercial, he based his art on it,using everything from Campbell soup cans and Brillo pads to images of Jackie and Marilyn. Art and advertising were inseparable, according to Warhol; kitsch and commerce mingled in your face, and the flaunted aim was celebrity and money

“Good business is the best art”, Warhol famously said. What this means in terms of Warhol and the artists he influenced is the theme of “Pop Life: Art in a Material World”, an exhibit at the National Gallery in Ottawa. Featuring over 250 paintings, sculpture, installations and other products that blur the lines between art, entertainment and the marketplace, the exhibit promised to be a blockbuster.

“We are looking at a specific sub-sector of artists who have challenged the old notions of selling out; indeed, they made it into an art form”, explains John Shaughnessy, Assistant Curator of Contemporary art at the National Gallery. Among the many represented are American artists Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons, Keith Haring, Richard Prince and Pruitt Early; British artists Damien Hirst, Stacey Emin and Sarah Lucas; German artist Martin Kippenberger; Japanese artist Takashi Murakami; and Polish artist Piotr Uklanski.

The show first appeared in London’s Tate Modern last fall and was curated by the Tate. The National Gallery was its only North American venue.

To underscore the celebration of the commercial, there was a model of artist Keith Haring’s famed New York Pop Shop, which functioned as a store where visitors could buy t-shirts and other Haring-designed merchandise.

The exhibit featured works of well known artists who have seldom or never been shown in Canada. British bad boy turned multi-millionaire, Damien Hirst, for one. His collection, Inside My Head Forever, which includes a skull encrusted with diamonds, was sold by Sothebys in London for 111 million pounds on the very day in September 2008 - and this was when Lehman Bros.was going bankrupt in New York.

After Warhol, notes Shaughnessy, the baton was passed to Jeff Koons, who has both Warhol’s deadpan irony and his entrepreneurial skills. Koons, who at one time supported his art making by working as a Wall-street trader, known for his bunny rabbit and poodle sculptures (the stainless steel Rabbit is in the show) He swooped into the big time at the l990 Venice Biennale through his Made in Heaven exhibit of billboards and paintings. They showed the artist and his nearly-nude model, Ilana Staller, a Hungarian port star turned Italian politician known as La Cicciolina. Their carnal poses were set against a kitsch Garden of Eden backdrop, likening them to a commercialized Adam and Eve. When the two married, the merger of art, life and publicity was complete. Made in Heaven is one of the standout sections of the exhibit.

Is there anything in the show that is critical of our culture of celebrity worship and mass marketing?

“Infiltrating the mainstream is seen as a critical gesture”, offers Shaughnessy.

He also points out something more elemental: Pop Life is the first serious examination of how, in our brand-obsessed world, anything can sell as long there’s a buyer.

END

London's Hidden Neighborhood

Overshadowed by nearby Covent Garden and the theatre district, London’s Seven Dials never became a tourist destination. Yet the seven cobblestoned streets that radiate from a central square with a sundial has been a colorful neighborhood since the 17th century, when speculator Thomas Neale designed the area to lure London gentry.


photo courtesy of Jonathan Gregson
As industrial-age immigrants flooded the area, it deteriorated into a slum known for its gin shops. At one point, each of the seven apexes facing the central square housed a pub. Today, only Crown remains.

Rundown or not, the area has always fascinated. As Charles Dickens wrote in Sketches by Boz, “The stranger who finds himself in the Dials for the first time at the entrance of seven obscure passages, uncertain which to take, will see enough around him to keep his curiosity awake for no inconsiderable time.”

Today, the quirky neighborhood of artsy boutiques and cool restaurants feels like a discovery. Evolving from its recent hippy past, it is charmingly restored but not hyper gentrified. One of the sweetest corners is the historic Neal’s Yard, a kind of backyard that is home to vegetarian cafes, bars and Neal’s Yard itself, the homeopathic remedy store.

Across the yard, Neal’s Yard Dairy, encourages you to discover all manner of farm cheddars and stiltons from the British isles. Take advantage of the outdoor seating, or grab a massage at the Walk-In Back Rub. The presence of this local chain makes sense here, since this London nook has been the home of alternative medicine since its origins. Also long-drawn to the area: occultists and astrologers, attracted by both the sundial and the symbolic star layout of the streets.

In Earlham Street an outdoor market thrives and the flower stalls have the vibrant colors and giddy aromas of perpetual spring. Elsewhere on the street, Firetrap offers two floors of London-style fashion with an edge, while Fred Perry purveys more classic and veddy proper clothing.

For a break, Kitchen Italia serves great cappuccino and tasty, inexpensive pasta. And if you want to check your email, there are three computers.

On Monmouth Street, Coco de Mer sells upscale erotica and one-of-a-kind vintage clothing. Down the block, the artisanal parfumerie, Miller Harris, creates its own scents. A heady blend of amber, oak, vanilla, and musk, made for the legendary 60-plus songstress, Jane Birkin — most famous for the Hermes bag named after her — can be yours for about $100.

Where to stay? The trendy Covent Garden Hotel, visited by the likes of Kate Hudson and Kiefer Sutherland, is a low-rise hotel in traditional English style, with a flower-bedecked lobby and an inviting wood paneled library. Of course, afternoon tea is served.
www.sevendials.co.uk

CARDIFF Makes a Cool Comeback

A century ago, Cardiff, the capital of Wales, was a prosperous city with covered Victorian shopping arcades and a wool and coal industry that made the waterfront the largest coal exporting port in the world.

Then the story turned sad: the coal business declined, wool became cheaper elsewhere. The waterfront, known as The Docks, became the perfect seedy backdrop for the 1959 black and white film, Tiger Bay. Things only got worse in the l980's, when the city was hit by industrial collapse.

Today, Cardiff is showing signs of a dramatic comeback; the city is restored but still recognizable, and The Docks, renamed Cardiff Bay, has become the signature location for this city of 317,500.

Like everything else in this small city, Cardiff Bay is human sized, great for walking; there are also boat tours and kayak rentals www.cardiffwaterbus.com

The waterfront is a beguiling pastiche of various architectural styles. The most striking new building is the Wales Millenium Centre, a concert hall built of slate (there’s lots of it in the north), with what looks like a glass block sail leaning over one side. On it is marked, in English and Welsh, “In these words, horizons sing”.

A short walk away is an imposing l9th century red brick Victorian building, Butetown History and Arts Centre, which used to be a customs house but now contains photo and other exhibits on the history of the docklands and it’s multicultural past; one exhibit shows the century-old Somali presence.

The Mermaid Quay houses shops and restaurants and the St. David’s Hotel, a flamboyant glass structure with a full service Marine Spa. The marine theme continues outside with a boardwalk winding through acres of wetlands; herons, kingfishers and other birds forage for fish and insects in this food chain brought back to life.

In town, the restoration continues. The St.David’s shopping area (the name is common, since he is the patron saint of Wales). Is a circular pedestrian-only area with l9th century buildings housing ground floor shops. One is the recently opened Jamie Oliver Italian, a two-floor open kitchen restaurant

The Castle Arcade, recently revived, houses the renowned cheese shop and cafe, Madame Fromage. Choose from over 100 cheeses and tuck into a lunch of broccoli and Stilton soup. And yes, there is a Welsh Rarebit, made with three cheeses.

Nearby is the old Cardiff Market, with stalls selling their wares since 1891. Here you can find locally grown and traditional food - laverbread (pureed seeweed sometimes baked into oat cakes) and salt marsh lamb, cockles and leeks, the national vegetable.

A few blocks away is the stylish Park Hyatt, a stylish new hotel with a boutique feel; in the main floor lobby, a series of fireplaces runs the length of the room. The people at the front desk are typically Welsh, affable and informal. But the setting, despite the fireplaces is Cardiff cool.
www.visitcardiff.com

HEALTH: SECOND HAND CAT (appeared in the Globe and Mail)

“I got rid of the kids ‑ the cat was allergic”, reads the sign in the allergist’s office.

It’s a rueful reminder of the denial, verging on hostility, to cat‑caused sufferings ‑ the itchy eyes, sneezing , and even severe asthma that afflicts up to 40% of allergic people exposed to cats.

The public might be vigilant to the perils of second hand smoke, but when it comes to the victims of second hand cat, the attitude is one of indifference at best. “We get more and more calls from people allergic to cats,” notes Maxine Trusty, information counsellor at the Canadian Allergy and Asthma Information Association. Unfortunately, she adds, they get little sympathy or understanding.

“Some people seem to like their pets more than people”, she remarks. The allergic are often blamed for being anti‑cat, or not taken seriously. There is still some dark age thinking around that says the problem is all psychological.

When it comes to cat allergies, disinformation rules. One false notion is that somewhere, somehow, there is a cat that doesn’t cause allergy. No allergist would agree with this ‑ it’s not the hair but a protein in the saliva, tears, urine and the oil glands that adheres to dander (minute skin particles) and causes the symptoms.

Even a bald cat has the allergy‑triggering protein, but that didn’t stop the Toronto Humane Society from distributing a press release (later discontinued) from naming certain cats “suitable for mild allergy sufferers”. They also advised patients to “find an allergist who is supportive of your goal ‑ living with a pet despite your allergies”. Maybe smokers should seek respirologists supportive their goal of smoking.

Then there’s the totally erroneous notion that with enough exposure to kitty, the allergic victim will somehow become desensitized. The very opposite is true: when it comes to cat allergies, familiarity breeds worsening symptoms. At the cruelest extreme is the damage done to asthmatic children, up to 50% of whom are allergic to cats, whose parents nevertheless keep the animal.

“There’s no public awareness of the hazards of cat allergen”, Dr. Robert Wood, Associate Professor of Pediatrics at Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine.”

And yet the allergen (the substance that causes the symptoms) is everywhere. Wood was part of a Johns Hopkins University study that found cat allergen in schools, office buildings, even hospitals. The levels might be low, noted Dr. Wood, but, they add up. “People are being exposed every day to a great deal of allergen. This is one of the reasons our patients are staying sick and continuing to have high medication requirements.” Avoidance of the poison that triggers allergy is the main strategy for living with this chronic condition, he explains. Yet there is no escape for the person who works or studies in a sealed building near people with cat dander on their clothes, or the apartment dweller exposed to cat allergen through shared heating systems and carpeted hallways.

The true captives, though, are airline passengers. The space is sealed, the air recycled and there’s no escape. On some airlines, cats are welcome ‑ not just in the belly of the plane, but in the cabin, next to passengers.

(complete article on request)